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Laser Alignment

I’m going dive into the theory of laser alignment, show the math and the jigs I built to put that math into practice. This post is for someone who wants the “why” behind a lot of the online material on laser cutters. If you just want some practical tips on how to better align your laser, skip to the end. I won’t compete with the excellent videos that show the practical side of alignment.

So let’s dive in . . .

My laser cutter is CO2 based, optimized for precision material processing. The laser tube generates a coherent beam at 10640 nm, which is directed via a series of mirrors (1, 2, 3) before focusing on the workpiece. Each mirror introduces minimal power loss, typically less than 1% per reflection, depending on the coating and substrate quality. The beam’s path is engineered to maintain maximal intensity, ensuring that the photon density upon the material’s surface is sufficient to induce rapid localized heating, vaporization, or ablation.

The choice of 10640 nm wavelength for CO2 lasers is driven by a balance of efficiency, material interaction, and safety. This far-infrared wavelength is strongly absorbed by many materials, making it effective for cutting and engraving a wide variety. It provides a good balance between power efficiency and beam quality. Additionally, this wavelength is safer to use as it’s less likely to cause eye damage than shorter, visible wavelengths (often 400-600 nm). Fiber lasers also have a shorter wavelength (around 1060 nm) which is more readily absorbed by metals.

However, 10640 nm has drawbacks. Its longer wavelength limits the ability to finely focus the beam compared to shorter wavelengths, affecting the achievable precision. The diffraction limit provides the smallest possible spot size \( d \) given by the formula \( d = 1.22 \times \lambda \times \frac{f}{D} \), where \( \lambda \) is the wavelength, \( f \) is the focal length of the lens, and \( D \) is the diameter of the lens. The bigger wavelength needs a bigger lens or a smaller focal length to make a small hole. Since the machine size is limited, the longer wavelength results in a larger minimum spot size. This larger spot size limits the precision and minimum feature size the laser can effectively cut or engrave.

You can’t adjust the 10640 nm wavelength, which is a consequence of the molecular energy transitions in the CO2 gas mixture. This specific wavelength emerges from the vibrational transitions within the CO2 molecules when they are energized. The nature of these molecular transitions dictates the emission wavelength, making 10640 nm optimal for the efficiency and output of CO2 lasers.

The Omtech 80W CO2 Laser Engraver is fairly precise with an engraving precision of 0.01 mm and a laser precision of up to 1000 dpi. This is made possible due to its robust (ie, big heavy machine) construction and the integration of industrial-grade processors that handle complex details and large files efficiently. The machine operates with a stepper motor system for the X and Y axes, facilitating efficient power transmission and precise movement along the guide rails, ensuring a long service life and high repeatability of the engraving or cutting patterns. This level of motor precision enables the machine to handle intricate designs and detailed work, crucial for professional-grade applications.

But! Only if the laser beam is well calibrated. Let’s look at the math of that.

First all intensity values follow the inverse square law, with light, the intensity of a laser beam is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the source. Mathematically, this relationship is depicted as $$I = \frac{P}{4\pi r^2}$$, where \( I \) represents the intensity, \( P \) the power of the laser, and \( r \) the distance from the laser source. In practical terms, this means that a small deviation in alignment can lead to a significant decrease in the laser’s intensity at the target point.

Visually, laser intensity looks like this, so small drop off in \(r\) leads to big drops in \(I\).

Laser cutters can’t put the whole tube in the cutting head, so they need three mirrors to get to a cutting head that can move in a 2D space.

With this geometry, the effective power at the surface of the material is:

\[ P_{eff} = P_{0} \times T_{m}^{3} \times T_{l} \times T_{f} \]

Where:

  • \( P_{0} \) is the initial power of the laser tube.
  • \( T_{m} \) is the transmission coefficient of each mirror (a value between 0 and 1).
  • \( T_{l} \) is the transmission coefficient of the focusing lens.
  • \( T_{f} \) accounts for any additional factors like the focus quality or material properties.

In my case \( P_{0} \) would be 80 watts. I don’t have values for for \(T_l\) and \(T_f\). \(T_l \) typically ranges from 0.9 to 0.99, indicating that 90% to 99% of the laser light is transmitted through the lens. I would love if anyone has these measured parameters for Omtech.

In reality there is alignment error. Precise calibration matters a lot with lasers where a millimeter of misalignment can exponentially diminish the laser’s intensity and focus, impacting its effectiveness. Practically, my Omtech AF2435-80 can’t cut basic sheet goods without lots of tweaking. If \( e \), representing the alignment error at each mirror, would impact the effective path of the laser beam and could lead to a decrease in the energy density at the point of contact with the material. This error would affect the power \( P \) actually hitting the target area \( A \), therefore altering the energy density \( E \) and potentially the depth \( d \) of the cut.

$$ P_{eff} = P_0 \times (T_m – e)^3 \times T_l \times T_f $$

To actually cut something you need to remove the material, which takes power and time. A laser doesn’t burn material away like a hot light saber. Laser ablation is a process where the intense energy of a focused laser beam is absorbed by a material, causing its rapid heating and subsequent vaporization. This localized heating occurs at the laser’s focal point, where the energy density is highest. It can be so intense that it instantly removes (ablates) the material in the form of gas or plasma. The efficiency and nature of the ablation depend on the laser’s wavelength and the material’s properties. Essentially, the laser beam’s energy disrupts the material’s molecular bonds, leading to vaporization without significant heat transfer to surrounding areas, enabling precise cutting or engraving.

I like cutting wood. Here, the laser’s focused energy causes the wood to rapidly heat up at the point of contact. This intense heat can char or burn the wood, leading to a change in color and texture. In essence, the laser beam causes pyrolysis, where the wood decomposes under high heat in the absence of oxygen. This process can create smoke and a burnt appearance, but it’s controlled and doesn’t ignite a fire like an open flame would.

To cause ablation, the energy applied to a material is a function of power, spot size, and interaction time, affected by alignment errors \(\bar e\). The energy density \( E \) is defined by the laser power \( P \) divided by the spot area \( A \), and is given in watts per square meter. The interaction time \( t \), which is the time the laser is in contact with a point on the material, is crucial for determining the amount of energy absorbed. This is especially important because it affects the cutting depth \( d \) and is defined by the inverse of the feed rate \( v \). The burning power, or the energy delivered to the material, can be calculated by:

$$ E_{burn} = \frac{P_{eff} \cdot t}{A} $$

Substituting the effective power above, gives us the energy at the surface.

$$ E_{burn} = \frac{P_{eff} \cdot t}{A} = \frac{P_{eff}}{v \cdot A} $$

Since \( t \) is inversely proportional to \( v \) (the feed rate), and the depth of the cut \( d \) is proportional to the energy density over time, the equation can be further refined to calculate \( d \):

$$ d \propto \frac{P_{eff}}{v \cdot A} $$

This equation shows that the cutting depth \( d \) is directly proportional to the effective power \( P_{eff} \) and inversely proportional to the product of the feed rate \( v \) and the area of the spot size \( A \).

So, if you want to cut effectively, you maximize your power, hit at the right speed and get your beam as focused (small) as possible. To do this practically, you want to make sure you are cutting at the right focal distance and with the right alignment. You also want clean mirrors. The focal distance is determined by a ramp test. I’ll cover alignment below. Cleaning the mirrors increases the \(T_I\).

Alignment

To align my laser, I just couldn’t use the tape. First, you have to align for precision and then get accuracy through moving the tube. To get precision from mirror 1, you have to strike a target close to the source of mirror 1 and then farther away. There are many many videos that walk you through the sequence (mirror 1-2 close, mirror 1-2 far, etc). I want to focus on the math of precision.

The pulses will look like this:

Now, we can look at the x-dimension to see what point a straight line would intersect, call this \(x\).

Writing out the similar triangles gives:

For the x-coordinate:

$$ \frac{x – x_1}{\Delta d} = \frac{x_2 – x_1}{d + \Delta d} $$

For the y-coordinate:

$$ \frac{y – y_1}{\Delta d} = \frac{y_2 – y_1}{d + \Delta d} $$

So we can solve for the point a straight line would make when two targets are space \( \Delta d \) apart where \( \Delta d = d_{far} – d_{near} \):

  1. For the x-coordinate:

$$ x = x_1 + (x_2 – x_1) \cdot \frac{d_{near}}{d_{far} – d_{near}} $$

  1. For the y-coordinate:

$$ y = y_1 + (y_2 – y_1) \cdot \frac{d_{near}}{d_{far} – d_{near}} $$

Where:

  • \( x \) and \( y \) are the coordinates of the true point where the laser needs to be positioned.
  • \(x_1, y_1\) are the coordinates where the laser hits when the target is near.
  • \(x_2, y_2\) are the coordinates where the laser hits when the target is far.
  • \( d_{near} \) is the distance from the laser to the target when it is near.
  • \( d_{far} \) is the distance from the laser to the target when it is far.

Plotting what this looks like shows the relationship between the true dot and the near and far dots. It’s on the other side Here are the dots where near is blue, far is black and the red dot is the true dot that represents the laser moving in a straight line. These are extreme cases that would represent a pretty misaligned tool.
If I run a simulation with d = 5 cm and \(\Delta d\) = 30 cm with a max distance from the center of 10 mm, I get:

So this is odd: the red dot isn’t in between the black and blue dots. The line connecting those two dots is the path of the laser at its current orientation. I really want to think that the ideal spot would be in between these two dots. However, the intuition that the point (x, y) might average out and fall between (x1, y1) and (x2, y2) is based on a misunderstanding of how the alignment of a laser system works. In a laser alignment system, when you’re adjusting the laser to hit a specific point on a target at different distances, you’re effectively changing the angle of the beam’s trajectory.

The laser source does not move directly between (x1, y1) and (x2, y2), but rather pivots around a point that aligns the beam with the target points. Since the laser’s position is being adjusted to correct for the angle, not for the position between two points, the corrected point will lie on a line that is extrapolated backwards from (x1, y1) and (x2, y2) towards the laser source.

The resulting position (x, y) where the laser needs to be for the beam to be straight and hit the same point on the target at any distance will be on the extension of this line and not necessarily between the two points (x1, y1) and (x2, y2). This is due to the nature of angular adjustment rather than linear movement. The position (x, y) is essentially where the angles of incidence and reflection converge to keep the beam’s path consistent over varying distances. It’s pretty cool that two points give you this angle. In fact, the ideal point is located further back on the line of the laser beam’s path extended backward from the near and far positions, which geometrically cannot lie between the near and far positions on the target unless all three are equal. Fortunately, as the points get very close, you can just fudge around with the dials to get these on top of each other which is probably what most people do.

If the plots are closer to the center, it’s much easier to just not worry about the math. If I constrain the points to be 2 mm from the center:

Too complicated? Here are some basic rules from the math:
Just aim for where the nearest point hit at the farthest distance away. (The near point has less error.)

  1. Linear Alignment: The points are always in a straight line. This is because the red point is calculated based on the positions of the blue and black points. It represents the position where the laser should be to maintain its alignment with the target at both distances. The calculation creates a direct linear relationship between these three points.
  2. Relative Distances: The farther apart the blue and black points are, the farther the red point will be from both of them. This is because a greater distance between the near and far points means a larger angular adjustment is required for the laser, which results in a more significant shift in the red point’s position to maintain alignment.
  3. Ordering of Points: If the blue and black points are flipped (i.e., if the far point becomes nearer to the center than the near point), the red point will also shift its position accordingly. The ordering of the blue and black points relative to the circle’s center will determine which side of these points the red point will fall on.
  4. Proximity to the Center: When both blue and black points are close to the center, the red point will also be relatively closer to the center. This is because minor adjustments are needed when the target moves a shorter distance.
  5. Symmetry in Movement: If the blue and black points are symmetrically positioned around the center (but at different distances), the red point will also tend to be symmetrically positioned with respect to these points along the line they form.

What I did

Armed with the right theory, I had to move past shooting at tape, so I used this svg from Ed Nisley to create these targets and I 3d printed a holder for them. This is the jig that fits over the nozzle:

And the jig that fits in the 18mm holes.

I also made a holder for my reverse laser so I could use this in the forward direction:

Armed with all this, I built a calculator and you can poke at my R code.

Also, let me know if you want the STL or svg files for the alignment jigs.

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Lauren’s Desk

Lauren was using her desk for art and computing. She sketched out a design and I quickly drew it in sketchup.

Desk Concept

We decided to use an existing top from Home Depot. I probably won’t do this again. The quality is really poor. I had a to gouge out lots of loose wood and we used lots of Cyanoacrylate (“CA”) glue and epoxy to fill in the voids and then used my Lie-Nielsen No. 60-1/2 Adjustable Mouth Block Plane to shave off the excess adhesive. The end result was a nice smooth table, but the wood quality was really poor.

Pocket Hole Calculations

I measured my Kreg pocket hole drill bit as 133 mm long and 9.5mm wide with a pilot hole that is 4 mm in diameter and 12mm long (please comment below if you know the factory dimensions). Getting the Kreg dimensions right is an interesting problem. You can some discussion and calculations at this link and folks have talked about this.

Kreg pocket hole calculations

Since I’ll be screwing pocket holes into the legs, I selected 1″ Long Square-Drive Flat Head Screws for Wood, Black-Oxide Steel, Number 8 Screw Size. I will be using glue as well. The key dimension is the 15 degree angle and the key parameter is the distance between the 75 degree offset plane (green above) and the start of the pilot hole. In this case, I needed zero.

To get this working in fusion 360, I wrote this script.

I then drew the desk in Fusion 360.

desk rendered
Desk Rendered

And used cutlistoptimizer.com to generate the layout.

Cutlist Optimizer

I generated engineering drawings for the desk drawer.

drawer

And also generated drawings for all the components.

Major Desk Components

I’ve been generally unhappy with most table leg brackets, so I designed my own. This was pretty complicated, since they were an odd size that I had to cut out of a solid block of ash.

Brackets

I made them to fit the dimensions of the table exactly and use a lag screw to anchor the legs.

bracket dimensions

To build these brackets, I laser cut a jig to ensure I cut the holes at the right places. This worked out really well using my crosscut sled and drill press.

Jig Design

The final desk came together pretty much exactly according to plan.

Final Product
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Sled for Picture frame

Making perfect miters is hard and doing the math to get the inner rabbit dimension to add up isn’t easy.

One thing I’ve learned about making stuff is that jigs make life better.

I love making picture frames. Not only do I enjoy saving money, but I love dressing up art. Even a bad piece comes alive in the right frame. The problem is that making perfect miter cuts is hard. I started making frame on my miter saw, but that required a lot of tweaking and adjustment between the cuts.

There are great references online to use sleds to make picture frames. I like this one and the original but I don’t like the idea of a lot of the sled’s weight hanging off the front of the table. I also wanted to leverage the fairly accurate right angle of an aluminum framing square. As long as the blade is straight, the angle will add up to 90 deg, even if my sled is off by a fraction of a degree.

This was designed with two key constraints:

  • The two corner pieces must add up to 90°
  • each matching side must be the exact same length

This sled covers both of those issues as well as it allows for larger picture frames than a traditional miter sled stop system. Picture frames are not measured by the inside or outside length but by the rabbit so if your artwork or matte is 5×7 we can set the stop to create a frame for that exact size.

To make sure there is no play in the runners for the sled, I used the MicroJig Zero Play Guide bar system that adjusts to fit any table saw.

We have the dewalt dwe7491rs and I’m saving a a link to the manual here.

Some links that helped me:

In my table saw, the miter slots are 3/4 (wide) x 3/8 (deep). Distance from the right edge of the left trench to the left side of the blade is 5 15/16". From left side of the right trench to the right side of the blade is 6 1/8". Using Diablo 60 tooth blade.

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A mudroom

Our remodeled home included a mudroom and I was tasked to build the fancy hall trees that would store all our kids shoes, jackets and stuff. I am a member of the Wood Whisperer Guild and loved their design and construction techniques.

Design

I was inspired by designs like this.

Designing and building things parametrically in AutoDesk Fusion 360 has been a game changer for me, but this one was tricky since I wanted the start and end of the hall tree to include the width of the ply.

In order to make the width between the front facing the same, I had to do some math because the first and last boards were flush to the ends. The first and last cubby interior width is a and the middle widths is b. This is where a little math made the design a lot more clear and where the real cabinetry pros get confused. Hey! I’m an engineer not a carpenter without years of experience to just do this stuff.

$$ a = \frac{1}{4} (l – 6\, w) \; \text{and} \; b = \frac{1}{4} (l – 4 \,w) \; \text{and} \; k = \frac{l}{4} – \frac{3}{2}\,p$$

Or more generally:

$$b = \frac{l}{n} – w \; \text{and} \; a = \frac{l}{n} – \frac{3\,w}{2}$$

where n is the number of bins. We explored 4, 5, 6 to figure out what best used the space.

First, I needed to design five cubbies with equal width. I love building things, but use stock pieces and don’t have the time to glue up countertops or make faceframes. Because of this, I built this on top of an Ikea Karlby countertop (Article no: 703.352.12) which is super straight, low cost and beautiful. I played with the design to optimze the cutouts from 4×8 sheet of three quarter inch plywood. As an aside, I get my grade A or B plywood from Huston Lumber. The Home Depot stuff has a thin veneer and risks delaminating and is a lower version of grade C.

The final design resulted from lots of discussions in the space.

And used the following parameters. Calculating parameters made the design a lot easier to build.

Parameter Unit Value
room_length m 3.068 m
room_height m 2.5 m – 9 cm
ply mm 19 mm
countertop_height mm 37 mm
countertop_depth mm 650 mm
cabinet_width mm 575 mm
cubbies_length mm room_length – cabinet_width
cubby_depth mm 400 mm
base_cubby_depth mm 0.9 * countertop_depth
dado mm 6 mm
facing_width mm 1.5 in
facing_ply mm ply
a mm ( cubbies_length / n ) – ( 3 * facing_width ) / 2
b mm cubbies_length / n – facing_width
k mm ( 1 / n ) * ( cubbies_length – n * ply )
base_cubby_height m 18 in – countertop_height
top_cubby_height mm room_height – countertop_height – base_cubby_height
shelf_width mm k + dado * 2
cubby_height mm 1300 mm
len mm cubbies_length / n
n 5

I used the parametric features pretty extensively, basing everything off of fractions of the the total shelf length and room height.

The heart of fusion 360 is the sketch. By fixing the sketch and understanding the timeline, its possible to break down the design into a set of modular components that help you keep complex designs under control.

From there, I was able to use mapboards pro to get a cutlist, which I uploaded to cutlist optimizer to produce a fairly optimized design that efficently used three sheets.

Overall, fusion 360 estimates the total weight as 172 Kg, which is probably accurate with the long walnut countertop. I was planning on doing a stress analysis on the design, but I’m saving that for a future project.

Manufacture

After understanding my design, I primed everything with BIN primer that sprays on easily using my HVLP Harbor Freight gun. I use Harbor Freight guns for BIN because the cleanup is easy and I can frequently replace the gun. Since I sand the primer, the finish matters a lot less. For finish work, I use my FujiSpray MiniMite.

After priming, I used my Festool TS55 track saw to cut down the sheets. To make everything accurate, I made two jigs using 1/4 inch thick plywood and Starbond CA Glue. Reading up on ETHYL CYANOACRYLATE is recommended. It’s pretty cool.

This let me back super accurate cuts without needing to move big sheets of plywood on the table saw.

show the reader the cut pieces

After the pieces were cut, I went back to the model to update the dimensions I actually cut, which at my current skill level is around \(1 \pm \text{mm} \). In order to get everything consistent, I use the table saw to cut things down to equal dimensions and ensure everything is square.

Dimension Value (mm) My Value
Shelf Width (a) 482.1 481
Shelf Width (b) 491.6 492
Top Depth 400 399
Base Depth 585 582.5
Vertical Side Height 1952.8 1953
Base Height 420.2 419
Ply 19 18.67

Pocket Holes

drawing of kreg dimensions

I had to figure out how deep to cut the pocket hole with the 6mm dado. After building a drawing, it made sense to set the depth of the jig to \(\frac{5}{8}\).

For myself and others, I saved the chart I use here for depth and screw length selection.

I used stickers to make sure the screws from my pilot holes wouldn’t bump into each other.

I had a great helper to help me drill the pocket holes.


I measured the pocket hole screw to make sure I wouldn’t cut through the other side.

Assembly

I decided on which components I wanted to manufacture. Also during this time, I realized that I’m going to need a back to add strength to the overall design.

Components to manufacture

Finishing

painted bottom

I assembled the top cabinetry inside to make it easier to lift everything up.

mudroom

I love pocket hole joinery, but had to hide the screws on the top of the shelf and used Kreg Plugs. I had to cut down the plugs with a flush trim saw and used bondo putty to fill in. It’s great, you can’t see or feel that a hole was there.

I’ve always loved the finishing process and here I did several layers of sanding and putty. Mostly using two-part bondo and 320 grit sandpaper. I highly recommend the Festool ETS 150 with their dust collector. No dust and a super consistent finish.

After sanding 100 grit, then 180, I used Bondo multipurpose putty for extra strength. I also used clamps, a straight edge and bondo to ensure the edges were square.

The final product came out better than I expected. I still need to order and install the cabinet doors, but the final product is something I’m proud of.

mudroom

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