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home improvement

Gate Automation

Our gate is the most important motor in our home. It’s critical for security, and if it’s open, the dog escapes. As all our kids cars go in and out, it’s always the gate opening and closing. It matters.

The problem is that we have to open it and we don’t always have our phones around. We use alexa for home automation and iphones.

We have the Nice Apollo 1500 with a Apollo 635/636 control board. This is a simple system with only three states: opening, closing, and paused. The gate toggles through these three states by connecting ground (GND) to an input (INP) on the control board, which a logic analyzer would observe as a voltage drop from the operating level (e.g., 5V or 12V) to 0V.

To automate this I purchased the Shelly Plus 1 UL a Wi-Fi and Bluetooth-enabled smart relay switch. It includes dry contact inputs, perfect for systems requiring momentary contact for activation. It’s also compatible with major smart home platforms, including Amazon Alexa, Google Home, and SmartThings, allowing for voice control and complex automation routines. You can get most of the details here.

There are many ways to wire these switches. I’m setting this up for a resistive load with a 12 VDC stabilized power supply to ensure a reliable, controlled voltage drop each time the Shelly activates the gate. With a resistive load, the current flow is steady and predictable, which works perfectly with the gate’s control board input that’s looking for a simple drop to zero to trigger the gate actions. Inductive loads, on the other hand, generate back EMF (electromotive force) when switching, which can cause spikes or inconsistencies in voltage. By using a stabilized 12 VDC supply with a resistive load, I avoid these fluctuations, ensuring the gate responds cleanly and consistently without risk of interference or relay wear from inductive kickback. This setup gives me the precise control I need.

Shelly Plus 1 UL          Apollo 635/636 Control Board

[O] --------------------- [INP]
[I] --------------------- [GND]
[L] --------------------- [GND]
[12V] ------------------- [12V]

Settings


The Shelly Plus 1 UL is set up with I and L grounded, and the 12V input terminal provides power to the device. When the relay activates, it briefly connects O to ground, pulling down the voltage on the INP input of the Apollo control board from its usual 5V or 12V to 0V, which simulates a button press to open, close, or pause the gate.

To get this working right, you have to set up the input/output settings in the Shelly app after adding the device. In the input/output settings, the detached switch mode is key here, as it allows each button press to register independently without toggling the relay by default. Setting Relay Power On Default to Off keeps the relay open after any power cycle, avoiding unintended gate actions.

With Detached Switch Mode, Default Power Off and a 0.5-second Auto-Off timer, every “button press” from the app causes a voltage drop for 0.5 seconds. Adding the device to Alexa means I can now just say, “Alexa, activate gate,” which will act like a garage door button press.

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Kerf Mounted Corner Brackets

Kerf Mount Corner Brackets are great. But it takes some thinking if you are working with larger lumber. I recently purchased these and these from amazon.

The corner bracket looks like this:

The trick is figuring out where to cut the leg at 45 degrees and the kerfs, especially if the leg isn’t square. I was going to work out the geometry of this, but instead I measured the bracket, drew a horizontal profile in visio and then measured the geometry. Since the leg isn’t square, I had to decide where the bracket mounts flush. I included my drawing here in the hopes that it may be helpful to you.

There are instructions here.

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Lauren’s Bed

Overall Design

Lauren was disappointed when we had to take 30" away from her already small room to build a bench for a duct after adding a furnace to the third floor.

Lauren did an initial sketch of what she wanted to build. Her overall goal was to maximize the space available in a smaller room. This meant we needed lots of storage and that we wanted to use the surface area of the bed.

lauren's bed

We looked around for some design ideas. We decided to match the trim color of the room and use the bottom for storage.

design ideas

I drew this up in Sketchup and decided on a design that used pine 2×4 and 2×6 to make the frame, with poplar sides. By using an internal frame and a several stage layup, we could make lots of adjustments.

We decided on three drawers on the bottom using full extension hardware ball bearing side mount drawer slides. I found these on Amazon, which have been excellent quality. For my shop shelves, I purchased two Everbuilt drawer slides at Home Depot for 3x the cost that were inferior in quality.

bed layout

All this would be supported by an internal frame that would allow us to adjust to all the non-level components of the room.

frame

I like notching the pine board with my 5-1/2" Craftsman C3 19.2v Circular Saw. While an old tool, it is super light and I can use my speed square as a guide to notch out the pine quickly. I tried using my table saw with a crosscut sled, but the handheld saw was a lot easier.


drawers

For all joinery we used pocket screws and also #10 biscuts.

We laid out the frame on the floor and ensure the top frame was level, but we also should have leveled the bottom. Not leveling this created a lot of issues when we had to put in the drawers and build the outside frames.

The frame for the inside was built using lots of lap joints, held together by wood glue and pocket screws.

interior frame

I don’t build my own face frames. It’s awesome to order them professionally finished. I ordered them from the cabinet door store, which I can’t recommend enough.

Shaker Cabinet Door
Wood Species:Paint Grade Maple w/ HDF Panel
Frame Width:2 1/4"
Finish ($11.97):Simply White OC-117
Door Width (in):18.75
Door Height (in):10.75
Total Area (sq. ft.):1.3997395833333

or $44.23 a face.

One big mistake of my design was failing to account for non-straight boards and my over-optimism in everything lining up. Since the purple boards below were rigid, any mismatched angle would effect two drawers. This trapped me in the middle of a highly coupled problem where adjusting one drawer would cause problems with the others. I solved this by cutting 1 inch out of the middle of each purple board so I could adjust each one independently. Lesson learned: designs should always account for reality and provide the ability to adjust.

drawer slides

In order to get the drawers to sit at the right height, I cut out spacers for each of the drawers before installing the sliding tracks.

Result

The end result was awesome. Lauren loves her bed and we learned a lot putting it together.

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Wiring for 3HP 220V (for Laguna Tools 18|Bx)

I recently purchased a Laguna Tools 18|Bx 3HP 220V 18″ Bandsaw, specifically a MBAND18BX2203, and needed to wire a 220 Volt outlet. I’ve done a fair bit of electrical work (both low and high voltage), but I had a couple questions.

Just for the record, I enjoyed this video to make sure everything was setup correctly and this unboxing video was helpful. Also, here is the manual. The instructions weren’t great, but the wiring digram in the manual was helpful. YouTube and web forums are incredible for learning how to do new things like this. This article, Understanding 240V AC Power for Heavy-Duty Power Tools, was super helpful.

The 18BX2203 has a 12-amp 3 HP 220 volt 1 phase Leeson motor, with a 20 Amp recommended breaker. (Engines use more current on startup. Why not more Voltage?). 220V is a somewhat outdated nomenclature for the US system, but tools like this have adequate tolerance to take 240 without problems.

Laguna made this confusing since their website for the 18BX, differed from the manual. The website recommended a 20 amp breaker, while the manual recommend 15.

mismatch

The machine’s wiring diagram showed me a couple important things. First, I have no need for a neutral wire and the saw has a NEMA 6-15 plug.

wiring

The single phase motor will need at least 12-amps of continuous current at 240V (hot 120V + hot 120V) plus a ground. Here in the US, we have 240V single-phase residential, with a center tap. The center tap is called neutral. This is called “Split-phase” since you can grab the outer “phase” wires (hot-hot) or grab one phase and neutral for half the voltage.

This diagram cleared everything up for me:

Where I found myself confused was on the “single-phase”, if a “normal” outlet grabs one phase, and a neutral for half the voltage, wouldn’t a 240V setup have two phases? There actually is a 2-phase, but it’s weird as heck. It was basically two single-phase circuits set 90 degrees apart, and requires 4 wires instead of 3 but only carries about 14% more power for 33% more wires. Needless to say it wasn’t popular.

This diagram cleared it up for me. The amplitude of 120V on each leg adds to 240V at the same frequency. The current doesn’t add since the flow remains the same. A 240V-only piece of gear connects to two hot legs and a ground (no neutral), so if it pulls 20A, that 20A has to be going in one hot leg and out the other hot leg — there’s nowhere else for it to go! (In other words, it draws 20A, period — the legs do not “add together”.)

In setting up a 20-amp circuit, I had to make sure this worked with my setup. Per the table in the manual, I need at least 14 guage wire, so I went with 12 guage which I needed for the 20-amp breaker anyway.

wire thickness

How many wires?

I initially was going to use 12/2 wire, but I decided on schedule 40 conduit with Thermoplastic High Heat-resistant Nylon-coated THHN wire. I like this reference on wires.

I initially thought I would need to have 4 wires (a 12/3 wire), both a neutral and a ground in addition to two hot wires. After thinking about it a little bit, it made sense two use three wires total, since I was setting up a dedicated circuit and the ground and the neutral will have the same purpose. (The neutral is connected to the ground in the panel.)

What receptacle do I use?

The bandsaw came pre-wired with a 220V NEMA 6-15 3-pin plug. I used this page to make sure I used the correct outlet. One of the decisions I had to make was if I wanted to use a twist lock plug, but I didn’t consider the benefit worth the extra work to re-wire the saw.

For this setup, I needed a NEMA 6-20.

By the way, I learned that due to an exception in NEC, I’m allowed to plug 15A-plugged loads into either a 15A or 20A circuit. Further, a 20A circuit is allowed to have 15A sockets on it (as long as there are 2 or more sockets, e.g. the above NEMA 6-15 will suffice).

I decided on 20 Amp Commercial Grade Double-Pole Single Outlet, White which has two connections for hot and one ground wire and is a NEMA 6-20R, 2P, 3W.

Breaker

This is the most simple part. I need two 20 amp breakers that connect to different leads to get both parts of the split phase. This one will work.

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Three Way Troubleshooting

Tonight, I was rewiring switches to a more modern set of switches. These days I don’t have time to learn by experience, I have to think my way through this. Without experience, I have to go back to first principles. Funny enough, understanding a four way switch is very similar to understanding digital logic and computation in general.

A three way switch is an electrical component that lets you turn a light on or off from three or more locations. Any one toggle should change the state of the light. To control a light from one location, all you need is a simple on/off switch. The switch either closes the circuit, in which case the light goes on, or it opens the circuit, in which case the light goes off. Essentially, the switch takes two ends of a wire and connects or disconnects them. This is different than a one-switch circuit where the position of the switch correlates with the state of the light. In the examples below, up will mean on, and down will mean off.

First, there are $2^n$ states for $n$ switches. A 4-way switch has three lights or eight states. Mine were wrong. Lauren (my 12 year old) and I measured three switches: 1,2 and 3. Switch 2 was the four-way switch. Our measurements produced:

Case 1 2 3 Light Ideal
1 0 0 0 off off
2 0 0 1 off on
3 0 1 1 off off
4 0 1 0 on on
5 1 1 0 off off
6 1 1 1 on on
7 1 0 1 off off
8 1 0 0 off on

Two states are off: cases two and eight. They should be closed, but are open.

To think about this more, I was helped by Rick Regan at exploring binary

The next piece was to understand how the circuit actually works so I could look at what configuration might be causing the current state machine. This simulation (credit to falstad.com) was awesome.

The key insight was that both failing states should have counted on the four way to close the circuit but the circuit was staying open. With that knowledge, I was able to put the four-way together per the diagram below.

4 way wiring

And, for my switches in particular:

helpful links

finding function
exploring binary
three way switch troubleshooting
some nice diagrams
another nice picture for the three way

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July 4th Home Project: Thermostat Bracket

This post is about how to use design tools to save time and build nice stuff at home using computer controlled machines (CNC). In addition to describing my design process, I’ve also included the helpful references I found along the way.

Our old thermostat was too small for our wall. I could have replaced the drywall, but I needed a starter project to help me understand 3D CNC work with wood. Replacing the drywall would have taken a good bit of time because of the lath behind the old thermostat. The bracket took a long time because I had to learn wood CNC and spent way too long finishing the surface. In the end, this was a great use of a wood CNC machine. It would have been difficult to get the corners right and route out the pocket inside. Additionally, I could prototype and correct parts of my design with the rapid iteration that CNC machines provided.

We have a programmable thermostat with z-wave, the 2gig CT100 Z-Wave Touch Screen Programmable Thermostat. It works perfectly and is easy to control with our Mi Casa Verde VeraLite Home Controller. This gives us the ability to set our temperature from our phones or do nest-like things like learn our patterns and adjust temperature. We can also set up multiple thermostats to regulate temperature throughout the different regions of our house.

In case you are working with the CT100 or the VeraLite, you might find the following links helpful:

Design

I designed the bracket in Fusion 360. I’m still figuring out how to use Fusion, but it is a computer-aided design application for creating 3D digital prototypes including design, visualization and simulation. Fusion 360 is easy to use and it provides the ability to go from design, render, analysis and production in one tool. Most important, it is free for hobbyists.

The design was pretty straightforward. It is a one inch offset with fillets that matched the radius of the CT100. One problem with CNC routing is that I tend to design features that take advantage of the CNC features and this tends to lead to more curves. I just had to get the measurements right. I shouldn’t need to do this, but I used a laser cutter to cut out the frame from a piece of cardboard to check the fit. I’m glad I did, because I hadn’t accounted for some of the curves and the opening was too small. In general, I love using the laser-cutter to prototype designs. The prototype let me see how the final design would look on the wall. This would have been helpful to test different designs. Chrissy and I tend to like 18th-century English and 19th-century neoclassic millwork, but I didn’t put too much thought into this design, partly because I could change it so easily.

Here is the final, dimensioned, design:

Screenshot 2016-07-03 10.16.37

Construction

I found a piece of scrap plywood at TechShop that I cut on the ShopBot buddy.

ShopBot Buddy

To cut the workpiece I used the 1/4″ High Speed Steel Two Flute Downcut. You can see the purchase page here. As this was my first cut, I had to understand the definitions and the different cutter parameters to build the tool in fusion.

For the High Speed Steel Two Flute Downcut I have the parameters are:

  • CED: 1/4
  • CEL: 1
  • SHK: 1/4
  • OAL: 3

Here are some terms that helped me:

CED: CED is abbreviated for cutting edge diameter or the width of the cut the tool should make through the work piece. CED has a tolerance in thousandths of an inch or .xxx decimal places.

CEL: CEL is abbreviated for cutting edge length and is the maximum thickness of the material it can cut. CEL has a tolerance in hundredths of an inch or .xx decimal places.

SHK: SHK is abbreviated for shank diameter and is the nominal size of the shank which should match the collet size of the spindle the tool will be used in. SHK has tolerance in the ten-thousandths of an inch or .xxxx decimal places.

OAL: OAL is abbreviated for overall length and is the total nominal length of the tool from end to end. OAL has a tolerance in hundredths of an inch or .xx decimal places.

HSS: High Speed Steel, typical applications in Non-Abrasive Plastic, Solid Wood & Aluminum where keen edges perform best. High Speed Steel tools perform well in hand routing applications where a tough core is necessary to prevent tool breakage.

Carbide Tipped: Used for a variety of applications in composite woods, hardwoods, abrasive plastics and composites plastics to hard aluminum. Limited by geometry in some applications due to the brazed nature of the tool. Carbide Tipped tools work well in hand routing applications due to the tough HSS core and hard carbide cutting edges.

Solid Carbide: Typically used for widest variety of applications including man-made board, solid wood, abrasive plastics, and some aluminum’s. Solid Carbide does not deflect allowing the tool to be fed at higher feedrates than PCD or straight insert cutters decreasing cycle times. s typically. Solid tools also have major edge keenness advantage thought only possible in HSS until a few years ago.

Chipload: Chipload is simply defined as the thickness of a chip which is formed during the machining of a material. Chipload is critical because if the chip is the proper size, the chip will carry away the heat promoting long tool life. If the chip is too small, the heat is transferred to the cutting tool causing prematurely dulling. Too high of a chipload will cause an unsatisfactory edge finish, or part movement.

The most important reason to understand cutter parameters, is to set the correct feed rates, which is a combination of rpm and cutting speed. In order to get this right, I consulted this reference from ShopBot and read up on end mills in general at makezine. I also was able to incorporate some information from destiny tool that was helpful to verify my settings.

These links also helped:
* hardwood cutting data from Onsrud
* A great video tutorial from ShopBot

After understanding endmills, I had to get everything in the right format for the machine. I found the open sbp reference to be very helpful and the command reference also taught me how to understand the resultant g-code.

I summarized my research below:

Table

Name SB# Onsrud Series Cut Chip Load per leading edge Flutes Feed rate (ips) RPM Max Cut
1/4″ Downcut Carbide End Mill 13507 57-910 1 x D 0.005-0.007 2 3.0-4.2 18,000

You can see the final product here:

20160703_180847

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